Follow a country lane leading to The New Inn, Kidmore End, and be rewarded with delicious dining in an intimate and bespoke atmosphere.Within two months of taking over the business, new owner Tracy Burtwell and her son Jake O'Keefe, who manages the bar, have brought a customer-service perspective to entertaining guests. They warmed the interior with "little touches", including seating improvements, a lick of fresh paint and the addition of white table linen and wintry decorations.

I was pleased to meet Tracy and her talented staff, who emphasise hospitality through the preparation of meals tailored to individual requests.

My partner and I enjoyed a goat's cheese salad with pears and pickled walnuts. The warm and tender cheese with soft and subtle fruit was an excellent combination. For the main course, I had ribeye steak with watercress and béarnaise sauce, which tasted heavenly and came with hand-cut chips.

Later, we scanned "the puds" menu, unable to easily decide. In the end, I fancied the poached autumn fruits in spiced merlot and cinnamon cream.

We finished with a local touch